Rubies & Sapphires

Both Rubies and Sapphires fall under the same family known as “Corundum.” They are both composed of a combination of aluminium and oxygen. Sapphires come in every color imaginable—green, blue, black, orange, pink, brown, grey, yellow, purple, and even colorless. Sometimes, they can even be bicolored. In gemmology, sapphires are always identified by their color, for example, blue sapphire, yellow sapphire, etc. On the other hand, Rubies come in various shades of red.

Ruby & Diamond on Gold 14 Ct. Ring

Both Rubies and Sapphires have been considered regal gems, often worn by kings and queens. In the Catholic tradition, sapphires have adorned the rings of bishops and cardinals. It is said that the blue color of sapphires symbolizes heaven, and supposedly, those who wear sapphires become more virtuous, devout, and wise. Buddhists believe that sapphires signify friendship and steadfastness. Ancient Hindus thought that offering a Ruby to the god Krishna would lead to rebirth as an emperor. According to Hindu writings, the Ruby represents the sun, while the Sapphire represents the planet Saturn.

The Shapes of Rubies and Sapphires

Generally, when considering sizes of a carat or more, both Rubies and Sapphires are usually cut into either an oval or antique cushion shape. These styles allow cutters to preserve the most weight from the original rough. However, when rough crystals take on other shapes—such as triangles, kites, shields, pears, or hearts—they can also be fashioned into these fancy forms. Connoisseurs of these gems recognize that Rubies and Sapphires are often less symmetrical than less expensive colored stones. This is because cutters are aware that significant value can be lost when Rubies and Sapphires are reduced to symmetrical shapes.

Sapphire & Diamond on Gold 14 Ct. Earrings

In smaller sizes, typically less than half a carat, Rubies and Sapphires are commonly cut into traditional shapes such as round, oval, pear, marquise, square, and rectangular. Before the 1300s, gems were usually cut into unfaceted rounded beads or cabochons (dome-shaped stones). At that time, Rubies and Sapphires looked attractive when cut into cabochon style. Initially, facets were added haphazardly, but by around 1450, various styles evolved. By the 1920s, cutters had perfected the brilliant cut for precious stones, which was later applied to Rubies and Sapphires.

The Impact of Shape and Cutting Style on Value

One may wonder how the shape and cutting style affect the price of these gems. In fact, it is a combination of clarity, color, and brilliance that typically plays a greater role in determining the price of a Ruby or Sapphire, rather than the shape or cutting style. Nevertheless, these two factors can influence the value of these stones.

Since the cabochon is the simplest style, it costs less to cut than faceted styles. Another reason cabochons are priced lower is that they are often made from materials unsuitable for faceting. However, it is noteworthy that these two gems, when cut into cabochons, can also be of high quality, especially those found in antique jewelry.

Judging Ruby Color

First and foremost, those interested in purchasing these gems must understand what “Hue” signifies in gemmological terms. “Hue” refers to a pure color such as red, orange, or orangy-red. The “Tone” indicates the amount of color present in the stone. The lightest possible stone is colorless, while the darkest is black. “Tone” refers to lightness or darkness and can be categorized as very light, light, medium light, medium dark, dark, or very dark. The “Purity” describes the degree to which the hue is masked by brown or grey. Intensity, strength, and saturation are other terms used for color purity. In some certificates, color purity is described as vivid (most pure), strong, moderately strong, very slightly brownish or greyish, slightly brownish or greyish, and brownish or greyish (least pure).

To evaluate Ruby color, gem dealers agree that vivid colors are far more desirable than dull, muddy, brownish colors. To gain a better understanding, one must compare the colors of red garnets and rubies side by side, determining which has the most vivid color and the least amount of brown. Being aware of color purity will enhance your sensitivity to it and assist in selecting a more desirable Ruby. Judging the hue of a Ruby is as challenging as assessing the tone. The various tones and potential brownish tints can be distracting. Moreover, it is essential to remember that Rubies are a blend of two colors—purplish-red and orangy-red. When observing rubies from different angles, one can see these two colors due to specific optical properties of corundum. When judging the hue, one must look for the dominant color in the face-up view. Generally, the more purple or orange a stone appears, the lower its cost. Typically, Rubies exhibit an orangy or purplish tint, and personal preference plays a significant role in determining which is best. However, it is crucial to note that finding a medium-dark, vivid red ruby is quite challenging. I always advise clients to select a color that they find attractive and that fits their budget. Keep in mind that colors seen in synthetic stones, paper, plastics, and fabrics may not be present in a natural gemstone. However, comparison objects can help determine how purplish, orangy, or brownish a tone is, and using them is more reliable than relying on one’s color memory.

The Influence of Lighting on Ruby Color

Now, let us discuss how lighting affects Ruby color. Visualize how different the colors of a snow-capped mountain appear at sunrise compared to midday. This difference arises from the lighting, not a change in the mountain itself. Similarly, the color of a Ruby will vary depending on the lighting conditions. For instance, under fluorescent lights, some Rubies may appear neutral, while others may exhibit a greenish tint, causing red stones to look greyish, orangy stones to appear more orange, and purplish ones to seem more purple. Under sunlight, and depending on the time of day, the season, and the geographic location, Rubies will have their hue affected. Regardless of the hue, these stones will look brighter and less black in the more direct, intense light of midday, summer, or tropical sun. Another effect of sunlight is that ultraviolet rays can cause a red fluorescent glow in Rubies, enhancing their red appearance. Rubies from Burma are particularly noted for their strong red fluorescence.

Judging Sapphire Colors

Before the 1980s, jewelers rarely sold Sapphires that were not blue. This was due to a significant percentage of fancy Sapphires (non-blue Sapphires) being pale and unattractive. However, in the 1980s, some dealers in Thailand began to intensify the color of fancy Sapphires through controlled heat treatments. Intense yellow Sapphires, in particular, became plentiful. Additionally, new sources of fancy Sapphires were discovered in countries like Tanzania. Today, one can find pink, orange, purple, yellow, or green sapphires in jewelry stores.

In gemmological terms, when Sapphire is referred to by itself, it denotes the blue variety. In its highest qualities, it is more expensive than other Sapphire colors. Top-quality Kashmir Sapphires, for example, rank among the most expensive stones available. The best color of sapphire is often described as cornflower blue. However, your mental image of this color may differ from what the jeweler has in stock. It is important to note that the cornflower (the actual flower) comes in varying shades of blue and violet, as well as pink, purple, white, and yellow. Thus, “cornflower blue” evokes a wide array of color images, even for those who have seen the flower. Since terms like “cornflower blue,” “inky blue,” and “pigeon blood red” are quite ambiguous, they are not typically used by gemmologists.

There are differing opinions regarding the best Sapphire hue. Some favor blue, while others prefer violetish blue. Most dealers agree, however, that greenish blue is less valuable. Dealers also have varying tone preferences; some prefer medium tones of blue, while others favor medium-dark tones. The GIA, in its colored stone grading course, describes the most expensive sapphire color as either medium-dark (vivid blue) or medium-dark (vivid violetish blue).

The Rarity of Padparadscha Sapphire

When one refers to Padparadscha Sapphire, this actually denotes a pinkish-orange stone found in Sri Lanka and is the rarest and most prized of the fancy sapphires. Its name is believed to have originated from the Sinhalese word for the lotus flower, which bears a similar color. Frequently, orange sapphire is called “Padparadscha,” but most corundum dealers agree that both pink and orange hues must be present for a stone to be classified as a true Padparadscha. This stone can range from a light to medium tone and from a pinkish-orange to orange-pink hue. If the colors appear somewhat brownish, the value is significantly reduced, and the stone may lose its classification as a “Padparadscha.” It is essential to remember that with all Sapphires, vivid colors are the most prized.

The Value of Pink Sapphires

Pink Sapphires rank next in desirability after Padparadscha. These colors are also highly sought after among fancy sapphires. Since pink is synonymous with light red and fine Rubies typically cost more than Sapphires, many Asian dealers prefer to refer to pink Sapphires as Rubies. In the Western world, jewelers tend to treat pink sapphires as unique stones with their own merits, rather than as inferior Rubies. High-quality pink Sapphires are rarer than Rubies or blue Sapphires and can often command higher prices. According to GIA colored-stone grading charts, the most valuable pink Sapphires range in hue from vivid purple-red to reddish-purple and possess a medium-light tone. As the stone becomes lighter, more brownish, or more purple, its value decreases.

During the 1980s, there was a significant increase in the production of Orange Sapphire, thanks to expanded mining in Tanzania’s Umba River Valley. The orange sapphire ranges from a yellowish-orange hue to an orangy-red. Vivid red-orange stones with medium-dark tones are the most valued. Whether a pink-orange Padparadscha or red-orange sapphire, it is supply, demand, and tradition—rather than logic—that dictate the prices for these stones.

The Value of Purple and Yellow Sapphires

Purple Sapphire is priced lower than orange sapphire. The greater the red hue and the less brown or grey present in a purple sapphire, the higher its value. Medium-dark, purple-red stones, sometimes referred to as plum sapphires or amethystine sapphires, are the most prized.

Yellow Sapphires are relatively common, ranging in color from greenish-yellow to orangy-yellow. Strong light yellows or orangy yellows are the most valued, while very pale or brownish stones are the least valued. When purchasing a yellow Sapphire, it is crucial to prioritize clarity, as their high transparency can reflect visible blemishes in the stone. Prices for these stones are comparable to those of purple sapphires.

Green Sapphire is the lowest-priced transparent gem-quality sapphire. One reason for this is that green sapphires do not typically exhibit strong or vivid colors. They range from blue-green to yellow-green, with the most valuable colors being a slightly or very slightly bluish-green of a medium-dark tone.

Having evaluated the various colors of sapphires, it is essential to remember that the choice of color ultimately depends on personal preference and how well it complements the wearer.

Judging Clarity

Clarity refers to the degree to which a stone is free from external marks, known as blemishes or inclusions. Although terms like “flaw” and “blemish” carry negative connotations, their presence can often be beneficial. Flaws serve as identifying marks that can help one recognize the stone. They may lower the price of a stone without detracting from its beauty. Conversely, they can also enhance the value of a stone by providing evidence of its origin, such as from Burma or Kashmir—regions renowned for producing top-quality stones. However, one should avoid flaws that compromise the durability of the stone. Additionally, when viewed with the unaided eye, the flaws must not detract from the overall beauty of the gem. A professional jeweler can always assist in making a choice that aligns with both one’s needs and budget.

Judging Cut

The cut plays a significant role in determining the value of Rubies and Sapphires, as it affects their color, clarity, and brilliance. For instance, a stone that is cut too shallow may appear pale and lifeless, revealing flaws that would otherwise remain invisible to the naked eye. When professional jewelers refer to the cut, they are discussing the proportions of a stone (deep or shallow pavilion, off-center culet) and the finish of a stone (polishing marks or a smooth, flawless surface, misshapen or symmetrical facets). In gemmological terms, the shape of the stone (round or oval) and the cutting style (cabochon or faceted, single or full cut) do not refer to “CUT.” When stones exhibit an obvious unsymmetrical shape or profile, an extremely off-center culet, excessive depth, or a lumpy, bulging pavilion, these factors will negatively impact the grading of the “CUT.” Professional jewelers typically avoid such stones, as they are less desirable. Gems categorized as poorly cut are usually available at a significantly lower price.

Judging Brilliance

When the term “brilliance” is applied to colored stones, it refers to their ability to reflect light and color back to the observer's eye. A brilliant stone possesses “life.” Conversely, if there is low brilliance or none at all, it is referred to as “dead.” Brilliance should not be confused with “glare,” which is a pale or white reflection of light off the surface of the stone. To gain a deeper understanding of “brilliance,” I encourage you to ask your jeweler to show you various cut stones and compare their brilliance under identical lighting conditions. This practice will help develop your eye for quality. Once you can recognize a finely cut, brilliant stone, you will be well-equipped to identify value.

It is crucial to remember that finding an attractive stone is more important than securing one at a bargain price. Rubies and Sapphires that exhibit vibrancy and color will always hold value, though they may not always be readily available.

Caring for Your Sapphire and Ruby Jewelry

It is no coincidence that Ruby and Sapphire are the most popular colored stones for everyday wear. Their hardness, toughness, and resistance to chemicals make them ideal for jewelry. Although these two stones can withstand ultrasonic cleaning, it is risky to do so regularly. I would advise against cleaning them with ultrasonic or steam cleaners. The best method is to soak and wash them in warm, soapy water using a mild liquid detergent, followed by drying with a soft, lint-free cloth. Regardless of how dirty the stones may become, never boil them, as this could create cracks or alter their color. Additionally, avoid soaking them in any solution containing borax, as this may corrode the surface of the stones. Jewelry pieces should be wrapped separately in soft material or placed individually in pouches or padded jewelry bags. If a piece is stored next to or atop other jewelry, the metal mountings or stones may become scratched. Regularly check your jewelry for loose stones. Gently shake or tap it while holding it next to your ear. If the stones rattle or click, consult a jeweler to tighten the prongs.

I hope that by reading this article, prospective buyers will gain the confidence to make informed choices when purchasing Rubies and Sapphires. Beware of sales or advertisements that seem too good to be true. If possible, establish a relationship with a reputable jeweler whom you can trust—someone who will prioritize your interests. They can help you discover opportunities that you might not find on your own. Ultimately, selecting a gemstone is a deeply personal matter, and consulting with jewelry professionals will enhance your faith in your instincts and your ability to evaluate gems. After all, when it comes to choosing a Ruby or Sapphire, you are the one who knows what is best for you.