Rubies & Sapphires: Artisan Craftsmanship in Fine Jewellery

Bespoke Craftsmanship and Artisan Design

18ct white gold ring set with a deep blue sapphire and brilliant-cut diamonds, handcrafted

18ct gold ring set with natural rubies, crafted for timeless elegance and lasting value

18ct white gold necklace set with a deep blue sapphire and brilliant-cut diamonds, handcrafted

18ct white gold bracelet set with a deep blue sapphire and brilliant-cut diamonds

18ct gold earrings set with natural sapphires, crafted for refined

18ct white gold earrings set with natural rubies, crafted with precision

18ct white gold necklace set with natural rubies, crafted with precision

Rubies and Sapphires belong to the same noble family -corundum- yet in the hands of an artisan, each stone becomes unmistakably individual. Formed from aluminium and oxygen under immense natural pressure, these gems have been prized for centuries not merely for their beauty, but for the mastery required to reveal it.

Sapphires appear in an extraordinary spectrum of colour: deep blues, soft pinks, luminous yellows, greens, purples, even colourless, while Rubies remain faithful to red, ranging from quiet crimson to intense, fiery depth. What unites them is presence. Rubies and Sapphires are denser and heavier than diamonds, and that weight is felt immediately in the hand. It gives the stone a quiet authority, something you sense before you ever see it set.

In bespoke jewellery, colour is never chosen from a catalogue. It is selected stone by stone, guided by trained eye, experience and intention. Every Ruby or Sapphire is considered for how it feels, how it carries its weight and how it will live within its future setting, interacting with light, metal and the person who will wear it.

Regal Stones, Handcrafted with Purpose

Historically worn by kings, queens, bishops and emperors, Rubies and Sapphires have always carried meaning beyond adornment. Blue sapphires were associated with wisdom and the heavens; rubies with the sun, vitality and power. These associations endure, particularly in bespoke jewellery, where symbolism matters as much as form.

A custom Ruby or Sapphire piece is never accidental. The stone is chosen for its character—its velvety depths, its inner glow, its quiet strength—and the design grows outward from there, respecting the stone’s natural architecture, its imperfections and its history.

Shape: Letting the Stone Lead

When working with fine Rubies and Sapphires, artisans often favour oval and antique cushion cuts. These shapes honour the original crystal, preserving weight and allowing the stone’s natural geometry to speak. Fancy forms—pear, shield, heart, kite—are only embraced when the rough itself suggests them.

Perfect symmetry is not the goal. In fact, forcing symmetry can strip a stone of both value and soul. Fine Rubies and Sapphires often retain subtle asymmetries, signs of restraint and respect. True craftsmanship lies in cutting with the stone, not against it.

From Cabochon to Brilliance: A Craft Refined Over Centuries

Before the 14th century, Rubies and Sapphires were shaped into smooth cabochons, their appeal resting on colour and surface glow. Over centuries, faceting evolved through experimentation and accumulated knowledge. By the early 20th century, cutters had mastered brilliant styles that enhanced luminous intensity without sacrificing integrity.

Even today, a cabochon Ruby or Sapphire, especially in antique or bespoke jewellery, can be extraordinarily valuable when the material possesses depth, colour and life.

A gemstone's colour is not chosen. It is felt

Antoine Debono Jewellers

Colour Judgment: An Artisan’s Eye

Judging colour is never theoretical. It is instinctive, visual and shaped by years of experience. An artisan does not measure colour on a chart; it is read in the stone’s velvety depths, its inner glow, and the way light moves across its surface.

Rather than speaking only of hue and tone, we look for character—whether a ruby leans toward a purplish warmth or a fiery crimson, whether its depth feels soft and enveloping or vivid and assertive. The finest rubies reveal a luminous intensity: a rich red that is neither heavy nor dull, free from distracting brown or grey shadows. Stones of this quality are rare.

In bespoke jewellery, perfection is not dictated by theory. Clients are encouraged to choose the colour that resonates with them personally, because no two natural rubies express red in the same way. What matters is how the stone speaks to you.

Light plays a decisive role. A ruby can appear restrained under artificial light and come alive in daylight. Burmese rubies, in particular, are celebrated for their natural red fluorescence under the sun, an effect that gives the stone an almost internal fire. This quality only reveals itself when the stone is observed patiently, never rushed.

Sapphire Colours: Tradition Meets Individual Expression

While blue sapphires remain the most traditional and highly valued, bespoke jewellery embraces the full sapphire spectrum:

• Padparadscha (pink–orange): rare and poetic.

• Pink sapphires: often rarer than rubies of equal quality.

• Orange, purple, yellow and green: each valued for clarity, balance and depth.

Designing with Colour

At Antoine Debono, colour selection is inseparable from design. We consider how a Ruby’s red settles into the warmth of 18ct Rose Gold, or how a cool blue Sapphire sharpens against the crisp purity of White Gold. Colour is not isolated—it is composed, like architecture, through contrast and harmony.

In bespoke design, colour is guided not by fashion, but by resonance, how it settles against the skin, how it converses with the chosen metal and how it reflects something deeply personal.

The Hunt for the Right Stone

In custom jewellery, the search itself becomes part of the story.

We do not simply source a stone, we seek the right one. Whether it is a balanced 2-carat Oval or a rare, expressive Kite-cut, the stone must align with the wearer’s taste, lifestyle and intention. Only then does the design begin.

Clarity, Cut and Brilliance: The Maker’s Responsibility

Inclusions are not automatically flaws. They can confirm origin and authenticity, adding character and truth. What matters is whether they interfere with durability or beauty.

Cut is responsibility. A poorly cut stone—too shallow, too deep, off-centre—loses life. A master jeweller rejects such compromises. Brilliance is not glare; it is vitality. When a Ruby or Sapphire returns colour and light to the eye, it is alive.

Jewellery Made to Be Worn and Endure

Rubies and Sapphires are ideal for everyday wear due to their hardness and resilience. Still, longevity depends on care:

• Clean gently with warm soapy water

• Avoid ultrasonic and steam cleaners

• Store pieces separately

• Check settings regularly

  
  

A bespoke piece is made with generations in mind, not seasons.

Final Thoughts: Trust Craft, Not Hype

Fine Rubies and Sapphires are never plentiful and never cheap. Stones with true colour, weight and life endure because they are rare and because skilled hands are required to unlock their potential.

If something seems too good to be true, it usually is. Work with a jeweller who respects tradition, understands craft and values long-term relationships over quick sales.

In the end, choosing a Ruby or Sapphire is deeply personal. When guided by experience and shaped with care, the result is not merely jewellery, but a piece of lasting character.